How to Determine the Value of Thrifted Jewelry

The first tool that Mark Harris recommends bringing thrift shopping is a jewelers loupe with 10x magnification. “Most jewelry is marked, often with the metal composition, like ’14k’ as well as with the mark of the maker,’ he explains exclusively to Glam. “In many cases, however, the marks are too small to make out with the naked eye. The loupe will allow you to see clearly how the piece is marked.” It’s worth familiarizing yourself with some of the more well-known marks, such as those from “Tiffany & Co [not to be confused with the Tiffany setting on engagement rings], David Yurman, David Webb, and Mikimoto (pearls),” per Harris. If you find a mark but can’t identify it, Harris suggests using a Google Lens search.

Next, the gem expert advises using a small UV light, especially when considering potential gemstones: “Mine is the size of a dime and hangs from my keychain. If you find what you suspect are diamonds, shine the light on them and look for one or more diamonds to turn blue (to fluoresce). Not all diamonds fluoresce but many do.” He adds that even if only one stone out of multiple takes on that blue tinge, it’s likely that they’re all real. “If none fluoresce, they probably aren’t,” he adds. 

Finally, a rare-earth magnet can help you get to the bottom of faux markings. “Don’t ever trust the stamp on a piece of jewelry, especially silver,” Harris explains. “‘925’ means that the piece is sterling silver (92.5% pure), but many unscrupulous manufactures put the stamp on mixed-metal items that are much less expensive to produce. A rare-earth magnet won’t stick to items that are 925 silver, but will stick to the others.” Though they might sound bulky, these magnets can be small enough to put on your keychain — Harris just warns against keeping them next to your credit cards or cell phone. 

Even without your own everyday carry kit, you can still conduct some tests in-store to identify valuable thrifted jewelry. Simply understanding the markers of expensive pieces can make all the difference. Along with stamps, look for links that are soldered together, as this is a sign of high-end, high-quality jewelry. Green flecks, on the other hand, usually indicate that a piece isn’t made with pure gold since they signify corrosion. When you’re shopping for pearls — and there are plenty of modern ways to pull trendy pearls into your wardrobe — know that ones that seem too perfect and manufactured probably are.

“You may have heard about the tooth test for pearls,” Harris shares exclusively with Glam. “If you rub a pearl against the bottom of your tooth and it feels gritty, like fine sandpaper, it’s likely a real pearl. If it’s smooth, it isn’t. I see pearls sold as faux all the time when they are really real! A friend here in Austin recently purchased a $10 strand from an estate sale that was worth $3,000.” Understandably, you may not want to put a secondhand piece of jewelry in your mouth, so you can also conduct the test “by rubbing two of the pearls together,” according to Harris.

Another test for identifying true gold and silver is the skin test, which involves wearing the pieces and looking for leftover green marks or irritation — a sure sign of fakes. However, you likely won’t have time to properly assess this while shopping. What you can assess in-store is the weight of the piece since real pure metals tend to feel heavier than cheap counterparts. Stones are typically not glued on to expensive pieces the way they are with costume jewelry, and the individual elements, including clasps, will generally feel stronger and well-made. And if you’re lucky enough to strike some real gold, here are our best tips for rocking a classic gold chain necklace.